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IN GOOD TASTE

In Good Taste OH 082024

Meltdown Turned Masterpiece

A brown-butter sugar cookie and raspberry ice cream sammie

Story and photography by Jasmine Comer

My sister’s devotion to ice cream is legendary. Once, years ago at a family gathering when she was 5, she dropped her ice cream cone on the ground and immediately had a, whoops, meltdown. You would’ve thought her cone had been the very last frozen treat in the world. Even today, her passion for ice cream still goes unrivaled in our family. She’s the inspiration behind this recipe.

There’s truly something about homemade ice cream. Unlike store-bought varieties, it is made with love — often with someone special in mind. You get to customize everything from flavors and textures to mix-ins. Watching the churner work its magic, transforming ingredients into a cool, creamy confection is pure summertime satisfaction. And that first bite of ice cream you made with your own hands? Sweetness that goes beyond flavor.

Go ahead and pull out all the stops by sandwiching raspberry ice cream between brown-butter sugar cookies. The crisp, buttery cookies cradle the velvety, tart-and-sweet raspberry ice cream for a symphony of balanced flavors and textures. To achieve a perfectly creamy texture, I use equal parts milk and cream in the ice cream base. The beauty of this recipe lies in its endless possibilities. You can replace the raspberries with any soft seasonal fruit. Just make sure to puree before stirring it into the base. And there’s nothing wrong with vanilla or chocolate ice cream. This recipe might be a labor of love, but it’s totally worth it. I can’t promise you won’t have a meltdown after the last of your ice cream sandwiches are gone, though.

Raspberry Ice Cream

(Recipe adapted from Buttermilk By Sam)

Ingredients

4 large egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
12 ounces fresh raspberries
Pinch of salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions

  1. In a pot over medium-low heat, add and mix the egg yolks, sugar, whole milk and heavy cream. Simmer until the mixture thickens and reaches a temperature of 165 degrees Fahrenheit.
  2. Transfer the mixture to a bowl.
  3. Meanwhile, puree the raspberries in a food processor.
  4. Stir the raspberries into the cream mixture. Place the mixture in the fridge overnight.
  5. Follow the instructions on your ice cream machine. Then transfer to a freezer safe container. 

Brown-Butter Sugar Cookies

Ingredients

1/2 cup butter, cubed
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup cane sugar
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cornstarch
Pinch of salt

Directions

  1. Place the butter in small pot over medium heat. Stir continuously. The butter will start to crackle and then it will stop. It will then become foamy. Keep stirring until you see brown bits in the bottom of the pot. Pour the butter into a glass bowl to cool.
  2. Once the butter is cooled, add it to a large bowl with the sugars. Whisk until combined. Then whisk in the egg and vanilla extract.
  3. Fold in the flour, baking soda, baking powder and cornstarch. Divide into eight balls.
  4. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, preferably overnight.
  5. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and place the chilled dough balls on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
  6. Bake for 8–10 minutes or until the edges are golden brown and the tops of the cookies are slightly puffy.
  7. Cool on the baking sheet for 5–7 minutes. Then transfer to a rack until completely cooled.
  8. Before assembling the ice cream sandwiches, it may be necessary to let the ice cream soften a bit. Let it sit out at room temperature until it is soft enough to scoop. Place a generous scoop of ice cream on one cookie. Then place another cookie on top and smash the ice cream until it spreads to the edges of the cookie sandwich.
  9. Enjoy!  OH

Jasmine Comer is the creator of Lively Meals, a food blog where she shares delicious, everyday recipes. You can find her on Instagram
@livelymeals.